January 2006: ISTANBUL

Travelling and Boots

Minha realidade presente é fruto inquestionável de anos de sonhos, construções e desconstruções. Meu percurso, nem sempre fácil, foi moldado a partir das muitas opções tomadas, opções que não lamento nem me arrependo. Há muito desisti de ter uma vida convencional e rotina não é palavra em meu dicionário.

Vivo e sempre vivi em constante de contradição entre um acentuado estado de conservadorismo em oposição a uma necessidade constante de transgredir.

Quando falo de transgressão, não me refiro de todo a “drugs and rock and roll” que deixo aos pretensos transgressores, gente típica desta massa sem lucidez com quem reparto a vida neste planeta.

Minha real fonte de aprendizado está na humanidade das pessoas, seja ela elevada ou não. Não há Literatura, História, Ciência ou Arte que melhor me tenha trazido conhecimento ou dado a conhecer a infinita beleza e horror deste mundo.

Quando me refiro a uma pessoa, por analogia me refiro a um colectivo ou a um povo e não há melhor maneira de o fazer que se aventurar pelo mundo afora a conhecer gente, países e culturas. Independente do resultado obtido, independente se você, ao final das contas, gosta, ama ou odeia.
Sou movido por paixões, latiníssimo de acordo com minhas origens mas extremamente mental na análise e na absorção dos sentimentos.

O pior que posso sentir em referência a qualquer coisa é a indiferença, prefiro os extremos, sempre. Não suporto o mediano!

Já não tenho disposição para viajar, mas não consigo parar. Às vezes ambiciono férias estando em casa sem sair, mas mal acabo uma viagem, outra já está na forma.
Assim sendo, decidi criar um novo BLOG: Um lugar onde relato minhas viagens e paradas, aventuras e desventuras como se de um diário se tratasse.

Claro está que não estou para criar um portal para o mundo, um Blog ilustrativo tipo agência de viagens ou site de turismo, mas como um inveterado individualista, crio este Blog para meu próprio prazer e para recordar. Sempre do ponto de vista de um fetichista que busca o mesmo a cada paragem: Botas e Homens que as usem. Permito-me assim, repartir com aqueles que partilham dos mesmos gostos as informações pertinentes, as experiências e o sentir. Claro está, que também o faço para todos os curiosos e possuidores de espíritos abertos.

Assim, a partir deste Janeiro de 2006, cada mês será dedicado a uma cidade, região ou país que visito.

Seja então, muito bem-vindo e desfrute...
Celso Junior

Travelling and Boots

My present reality is unquestionably the result of years of dreams, constructions and deconstructions. My path, not always easy, was moulded from the many options made, options for which I am not sorry nor do I regret them.

I have given up a conventional lifestyle ages ago, and routine is not a word in my dictionary.
I live, and have always lived, in a constant contradiction between a tremendous state of conservatism in opposition to a repeated necessity to transgress. When I speak of transgression, I don’t mean the "drugs and rock and roll" which I leave to the pretend to be transgressors, the average person of this mass without lucidity with whom I share life on this planet.

My real source of learning is in the humanity of people, either elevated or not.
There is no Literature, History, Science or Art that have brought me better knowledge or showed me the infinite beauty and horror of this world.
When I say a person, for analogy I mean a people or a country, and there is no better way to do it than to venture oneself in the world and get to know the people, the countries, and the cultures, despite the result, whether in the end one loves or hates it.

I am moved by passions, very Latin in accordance with my origins but extremely mental in the analysis and the absorption of the feelings. The worse I can feel towards any thing is indifference; I prefer the extremes, always. I can not stand the average! I no longer feel the urge to travel, but I can not bring myself to stop. Sometimes I long for a vacation in house, without ever leaving, but as soon as I finish a trip another is already forming itself.

Thus being, I decided to create a new BLOG: a place where I recount my trips and voyages, adventures and disadvantages as if it was a diary.

Obviously I don’t mean to be creating a window to the world, an illustrative Blog like a travel agency or tourism site, but as an inveterate individualist, I create this Blog for my own pleasure and remembrance.
Always from the standpoint of a fetishist who always searches for the same in these places: Boots and Men who use them. I allow myself thus, to share the pertinent information, the experiences and feelings with those having the same tastes.
Of course I also do it for all curious people with open spirits. Thus, from this January of 2006, each month will be dedicated to a city region or country that I visit.

Welcome and enjoy...

Celso Junior

Istanbul

Istanbul… The main reason of Istanbul’s being a very popular city is its geographical location: In its south stretches Marmara Sea and in its north is Black Sea. Its west part is in Europe and east part is in Asia. The important waterline dividing Istanbul into two is the Bosphorus

Istanbul

A huge metropolis connecting continents, different cultures and religions; being home to eleven million people and one of the greatest business and cultural centre of the region

Istanbul

It has been a merciful shelter to people since 3000 B.C. and the great capital of Byzantium and Ottoman Empires.
An irresistible beauty with its precious Bosphorus, unique historical inheritances adorning its silhouette

Istanbul

This is the right place to learn, to see and to feel Istanbul more…
During my exploration I have collected everything concerning my own taste to share with you: Amaze the great passages of Istanbul’s history.
Learn more about every single inheritance of Istanbul including mosques, museums, palaces, hamams and bazaars.
Try to be successful and find the right shop’s address where you can buy your boots (rubber boots). Take a tour to the districts: Sultanahmet, Tophane, Eminönü, Beyoğlu and enjoy the hot policemen as well as the fishermen

Istanbul

Talking about fishermen…
You can find and admire them selling fish on the several Fish Markets or just fishing as a hobby over the Galata Bridge

Istanbul

Travelling abroad is not a simple decision to make, especially if you’re planning to visit a city that you’ve been there first 22 year ago (October 1983). Yes, that is my second time in Istanbul.
I do believe that at my first time there my vision of the city and its people was much more romantic and naïf. I’m much more critical and cynical now!

Istanbul is still one of the most beautiful cities of the world; the atmosphere is special and unique. Unfortunately I can say the same about the Turkish people: I just hated their behaviour, some exceptions of course, in general they aren’t friendly or nice, well, they pretend to be, but they aren’t at all!

Istanbul

...If a city and its atmosphere are made after its own people, sounds like a contradiction, I know that, but following the sequence of posts on my blog, perhaps you will find several reasons, like me, to love and hate Istanbul...

Enjoying the ‘taste’ of Istanbul...

Sounds good?
Travel through my photo gallery and see the beauty by yourself

Istanbul: How to get there

My flight was Swiss, well Swiss isn’t a good company anymore, I’m missing the time where I used to fly Swissair…anyway, is still better than fly Turkish Airlines

At Zurich Airport

Istanbul: Where to stay

We’ve booked our hotel via Internet and the choice was the Ambassador Hotel.

They consider a 4 stars hotel but I do believe that they have just 2 and half, perhaps less.
Next time Four Seasons Hotel…

Talking about the Ambassador Hotel

Ambassador Hotel
56US$ for a double room without view

The best things:
Localization was perfect, just at the heart of Sultanahmet, really practical.
The reception desk attendants: Really friendly and helpful
The terrace view: A Thousand and One dreams: A picture from a fairy tale.

The worst things:
Nothing worst than the breakfast, impossible to eat there. Disgusting!
A little dirty

Istanbul: Prices

“Dizem que pretenção e água benta cada um usa a quantidade que quer”

In Portuguese people say "Pretension and Holy Water, each uses as much as wanted". Well, people there use and abuse them: there had been a reduction of six zeros in the Turkish currency exactly one week before my arrival, thus the value of the Turkish Lira was 1:1 with the Swiss Franc. Unfortunately the offer and the quality of goods in Turkey cannot be compared with that of Switzerland; therefore it is shocking the quality of life against the prices there. Istanbul is really expensive; I would say it is even more expensive than Lisbon, Madrid, Berlin, Cologne, and Vienna; similar to the prices in Zurich, Paris and London. For example: an espresso - 5CHF; bottle of mineral water - 4CHF; decent meal - never less than 65CHF; breakfast - about 20CHF; an entrance to the Haman - 10 to 20 CHF + tips... and so on

Istanbul: Buying/Bargaining

Just awful, I hate to do it!
By the way, one of the worst feelings is to be standing up in front a window and somebody nicely comes to sell you something.

Prices are high in general

Istanbul: A bad choice

A suggestion: Never go to Istanbul during the Bayrami

Called Eid el-Adha or Eid el-Kebir in Arabic, Kurban Bayrami (koor-BAHN bahy-rah-muh) is the most important Islamic religious festival of the year, and a 4 or 5-day public holiday in Turkey. It affected hardly my holiday’s plans.

For this 2006, January: Began officially on the afternoon of the 9th (Monday), but affects travel from the 6th (Friday) and 7th (Saturday) through the 15th (Sunday). Exactly the dates we’ve chosen

Some advises:

1. Have some cash on hand when the holiday week starts. You should be able to withdraw cash from ATMs (at least on weekdays), but it's good to have a reserve, just in case.
2. The good points: some museums and sights (such as the bazaars) are be closed on the three first days of the holiday.
3. BANKS & BUSINESSES CLOSEDMost banks, business and government offices are closed for five days or longer, so you should stock up prior to the start of the holiday on Turkish lira cash and any supplies you may need. (A few shops and businesses stay open to provide essentials.)
4. TRANSPORT SNARLED
Public transport are likely to be severely crowded during the holiday period.
At least buses are free and trans are only 0,50 Turkish Lira instead the normal price of 1,10.
Anyway, be prepared for frustration, delay and inconvenience

You know, I like to see an alive city, millions of people working hard when I’m enjoying the view, no way this time, everything interesting was closed, even the Baazars.
AWFUL!!!

Istanbul: weather

Who knows me knows how much I love rainy and dark days, but gets 8/10 wet days without a chance to go out to take pictures or whatever is the hell on heaven!

It was also a bad choice to go to Istanbul in January during the rain season. Especially if you are expecting to take thousands of pictures … Temperature was ok, a little windy sometimes.
Anyway, even with the bad weather more than 2000 pictures were taken!

(my wet, cold and upset face)

Istanbul: Small and big offences

The most frequent offence for the tourist is the dishonest taxi drivers, which ask too much Money or just robbery you; my boyfriend was mistaken in 100Turkish Liras.

They are always inviting you to drink the tea... at a carpets shop. The pain in the ass are always pushing you to buy and some times they are really rude even calling you liar, if you aren’t t in the mood to buy

Everywhere, especially at the Hamams they are always begging you for tips or pushing you the bloody massages

Istanbul: area by area

Street by street, it is a meeting with the history.
No corner of Istanbul is like any other. Despite appearances, the same applies to the city's 11 million inhabitants, as recorded by the latest census.
Even districts that stand right next to one another are very different, from their houses to their shops, and their streets to their traders.
You can find everything in the world that you might be looking for and more in Istanbul) especially if the shops are open), where people from all walks of life live together in a tremendous hustle and bustle:
The mystery of the East and the practicality of the West

Reference Book: Guia American express (Istambul)

Let me suggest you to get a good guide in your own language, for me the best one is definitely the American Express Guide

Istanbul: Sultanahmet

The most important monumental buildings of the city are found in this section of old Istanbul. Ever since the Roman period, the imperial buildings and sanctuaries were situated there. Where Sultanahmet mosque (the "Blue Mosque") stands today, imperial palaces had stood, and Topkapi Palace stands atop the Roman Acropolis. The great cathedral Hagia Sophia of the Byzantine emperors still stands near Sultanahmet Mosque.Sultanahmet is the mosque only mosque in the world with six minarets. All these monuments remain in place, with the exception of the famed equestrian statues that once adorned the square and were later carried off by the Crusaders to Venice where they still stand in St. Mark's Cathedral Square

Istanbul: Sultanahmet

Sultanahmet is the big place of tourism, but nobody live here.
The reputation of Sultanahmet is not really good for the inhabitant of Istanbul. For the tourists, the principal nuisance is the continual harassing of f the merchants of carpets, which give not good image of Turkey.
That was certainly my case, Sultanahmet is beautiful as a dream but people behaviour can be a nightmare

Istanbul: Sultanahmet - Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain (Alman Çesmesi)

This fountain was a gift of the kaiser to the Ottoman sultan

Istanbul: Sultanahmet

Istanbul: Policemen at Sultanahmet

Istanbul: Sultanahmet - Hagia Sophia

The Church of the Divine Wisdom (Hagia Sophia in Greek) is one of the most impressive and important buildings ever constructed.Its wide, flat dome was a daring engineering feat in the 6th century, and architects still marvel at the building's many innovations

Istanbul: Sultanahmet - Hagia Sophia

Called Hagia Sophia in Greek, Sancta Sophia in Latin, Ayasofya in Turkish, it was built on the site of Byzantium's acropolis by Emperor Justinian (527-65 AD) in 537 AD.
Hagia Sophia was the greatest church in Christendom until St Peter's Basilica was built in Rome a thousand years later

Istanbul: Sultanahmet - Hagia Sophia

The 30 million gold tesserae (tiny mosaic tiles) which cover the church's interior, especially the dome, are now being restored to the brilliance they boasted 1500 years ago.
This means the interior is filled with scaffolding, and will be so for years to come. This may spoil photos, but not the church's grandeur

Istanbul: Sultanahmet - Hagia Sophia

Here, for the first time, the basilica's classic rectangle was widened to a square and topped with an immense flattened dome.

Istanbul: Sultanahmet - Hagia Sophia

The huge pillars, which support the dome, are effectively hidden in the north and south walls of the nave